[:de]Nordthailand: Chiang Mai und Chiang Rai[:en]Northern Thailand: Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai[:]

[:de]

Ich schulde euch noch einen Teil der Thailandreihe, ups! Hier geht es zu Teil 1, Teil 2, Teil 3 und Teil 4.

Chiang Mai Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Weiter geht es nach Chiang Mai, die Hipster-Stadt Thailands!
Am ersten Abend fanden wir gleich einen dauerhaften Streetfood Markt, der uns doch sehr an Berlin erinnerte. Das Essen und die Getränke dort waren gut, aber alles sehr international! Braucht man natürlich nicht unbedingt im Urlaub, aber witzig war es schon und wir hatten einfach keine Lust mehr nach was zu Essen zu suchen. Der Streetfood Markt war in einem „Hinterhof“ der Chang Klan Road, wenn man in Fahrtrichtung läuft auf der rechten Seite nach dem Nachtmarkt Gebäude.

Chiang Mai Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Nachdem wir uns bei der Hitze schon daran gewöhnt hatten uns im Pool abzukühlen wollten wir in Chiang Mai auch nicht mehr darauf verzichten. Wir sind nach Trip Advisor Bewertungen gegangen und haben im Baan Orapin reserviert (Via Mail ist eine Reservierung sinnvoll, denn es gibt nicht viele Zimmer. Unbedingt im hinteren Teil reservieren, der vordere Teil ist zu nah an der Straße, außer ihr seid tiefe Schläfer.).
Das Baan Orapin ist im dunklen Thai-Stil mit viel Holz gehalten. Die Bäder sind schon etwas in die Jahre gekommen, genauso wie der uralte Röhrenfernseher. Das Bett war gut! Das Personal ist meistens sehr schwer auffindbar, was etwas nervig ist, wenn man ein Anliegen hat, z.B. dass der Wasserfall im Pool angeschaltet wird (der immer aus ist). Augen auf, wo er das anschaltet, dann könnt ihr es in Zukunft selbst einschalten ;). Dafür hat man sonst seinen Frieden. Das Frühstück war okay, aber nicht mehr. Es gab immer 7 oder 8 Gerichte a la carte, davon die Hälfte thailändisch oder englisches Frühstück mit Eiern. Ansonsten Schinken-Käse-Sandwich, gekauftes Müsli mit Milch oder Joghurt oder Obst mit Joghurt. Warum die Leute auf Trip Advisor deshalb so abgehen haben wir nicht nachvollziehen können. Ein Grund für Begeisterung wären eher Pancakes oder gescheites Brot gewesen ;).
Die Entfernung zur Altstadt ist gerade noch okay zum Laufen, dafür ist es eben ruhig gelegen mit Pool. Für ein paar Baht lässt sich die Strecke aber auch gut mit einem Taxi oder Songthaew überbrücken (dafür immer das Visitenkärtchen der Unterkunft mithaben!).

Im Großen und Ganzen konnten wir die Begeisterung auf Trip Advisor nicht nachvollziehen. Die Unterkunft ist aber in Ordnung und ruhig. Anscheinend ist es aber nicht einfach eine gute Unterkunft zu einem vernünftigen Preis in Chiang Mai zu finden die nicht zu weit außerhalb ist.

Nicht weit von unserer Unterkunft haben wir im Sala Lanna einen wunderbaren Cocktail getrunken! Hier sitzt man wirklich schön am Fluss in gehobener Atmosphäre. Klar die Cocktailpreise sind auch gehoben, aber sie waren geschmacklich wirklich top, ausgefallen und um Längen besser als was wir in benachbarten Bars und Restaurants probierten (nicht empfehlenswert: the Riverside und the Meeting Room Art Café, beides teuer, aber nicht gut). Als Hotel sieht es auch sehr schön aus, ist aber auch eher teuer.

Es empfiehlt sich am Sonntag in Chiang Mai zu sein und auf den großen Sunday Walking Street Market zu gehen! Er zieht sich vom Eingang in die Altstadt bis auf die andere Seite. Es gibt viel leckeres Streetfood und wirklich hübsche Sachen zu erstehen. Es gibt noch besondere handwerkliche Sachen. Wenn man die Augen offen hält sieht man sie noch zwischen dem ganzen üblichem Ramsch (besonders in den Seitengassen und Plätzen). Es empfiehlt sich bereits gegen 17 Uhr dort zu sein, denn man braucht sehr lange um sich alles anzuschauen (wobei wir nicht alles geschafft haben) und ab 19/20 Uhr wird es unglaublich voll. Das war der Zeitpunkt an dem wir dann aufgegeben haben, denn es macht einfach keinen Spaß sich durch die Straße zu quetschen.

Chiang Mai Café Arte Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Zum Entspannen und für ein kleines Frühstück (die Roti <3) empfehle ich das Café Arte (Moon Muang Rd Lane 7) in der Altstadt. Ganz klein, aber super nette Leute! Toller Kaffee und leckeres Essen! Dazu die wunderschönen Tassen! Dahinter befindet sich ein Guesthouse, dort kann man auch etwas Keramik kaufen! Wer es gerne zentral möchte und auf einen Pool verzichten kann, der ist in diesem Guesthouse sicherlich gut aufgehoben.

Bereits bei meiner letzten Thailandreise 2012 war ich Chiang Mai und im Blue Diamond Breakfast Club (35/1 MoonMuang Road, Soi 9; aufgepasst: Sonntags geschlossen!) und dorthin musste ich dieses Mal wieder! Dort kann man den ganzen Tag über essen und das auch glutenfrei, vegetarisch, vegan, laktosefrei, vollwertig. Da man dort einfach mal was anderes bekommt ist es wirklich zu empfehlen. Leider ist die Qualität der Speisen und auch die Laune des Personals sehr wechselhaft. Die Pfannkuchen kann ich dort nicht empfehlen, sie sind sehr dick und schwer. Die Burger/Sandwiches, Kuchen, Kekse und das Gebäck ist aber sehr gut. „Richtige“ Gerichte würde ich dort nicht essen, das ist nicht deren Spezialität. Der Garten ist wunderschön und eine richtige Oase in der Betonwüste, es ist jedoch nicht immer einfach einen Platz dort zu finden. Ich hatte vor vier Jahren das Gefühl, dass das Blue Diamond wesentlicher beliebter und auch besser war. Trotzdem würde ich es wieder besuchen und auch weiterempfehlen.

Chiang Mai Orchideenfarm Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Wenn ihr auch einen Faible für Orchideen habt dann empfehle ich Euch die Bai Orchid Farm zu besuchen. Im Mai waren kaum Menschen da und man konnte zwischen den vielen bunten Orchideen lustwandeln (im touristenreichen Winter kann das ganz anders aussehen). Wer sich allerdings nicht für Blumen begeistern kann, dem rate ich den Besuch ab, denn dann ist es langweilig! Ich fand es sehr schön! Restaurant und Shop sollte man links liegen lassen, das ist nur Nepp, versteht sich aber von selbst, oder?

Chiang Mai Kochkurs Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Chiang Mai Kochkurs Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Kochkurs: Mango Sticky Rice in Chiang Mai Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

In Chiang Mai haben wir auch einen Kochkurs gemacht. Nachdem ich das das letzte Mal links liegen gelassen habe, sah ich den zweiten Chiang Mai Besuch als Zeichen ;). In Chiang Mai gibt es sehr viele Kochschulen, es ist gar nicht so einfach sich zu entscheiden. Wir haben den Kurs dann bei der Thai Farm Cooking School gemacht und es nicht bereut! Die Kochschule befindet sich außerhalb und es werden auch einiges dort angebaut, wenn auch im kleinen Stil. Trotzdem ist es sehr schön, denn man kann sich viele Pflanzen mal in echt anschauen. Außerdem ist es toll aus der Stadt draußen zu sein. Die Kochschule ist sehr groß und luftig, es finden aber auch immer mehrere Kochkurse gleichzeitig statt. Trotzdem ist es nicht überfüllt.
Wir wurden vom Hotel abgeholt und auf dem Weg zur Kochschule ging es erstmal zu einem lokalen Markt. Dort wurde uns viel erklärt und gezeigt und Zutaten eingekauft. Begeistert hat mich dort eine Maschine die frische Kokosmilch herstellt! Auch die Fleisch- und Fischabteilung war faszinierend!
Vor dem Kurs musste man sich festlegen welche Gerichte man kochen wollte, es gab 2 – 3 zur Auswahl. Danach ging es zur Sache! Es hat sehr viel Spaß gemacht und es war lehrreich die Zutaten erklärt zu bekommen und auch mal seine eigene Currypaste im Mörser zu machen. Die Lehrerin war nett und lustig. Super fand ich auch, dass die Gruppe sehr harmonisch war. Ich glaube man hat vorher darauf geachtet welche Nationen in eine Gruppe kamen, denn es gab eine andere Gruppe mit Asiaten, die sehr laut war. Unsere hingegen war recht still, aber trotzdem querbeet besetzt mit Europäern, Amerikanern und Australiern!
Einen Kochkurs bei der Thai Farm Cooking School kann ich nur empfehlen!

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: Gemüse by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: Kräuter by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: Fisch by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: FLeisch by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: Hühner by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: Hühner by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: frischer Tofu by Coconut & Vanilla

Markt in Chiang Mai Thailand: Reis ohne Ende, by Coconut & Vanilla

Wenn ihr über ein Auto verfügt und etwas Zeit empfehle ich euch dringend die Fahrt nach Chang Rai zu machen und den weißen Tempel anzuschauen! Meiner Meinung nach mit dem Königspalast ein Must-see! Der Tempel wurde erst von einer Künstlergruppe erbaut und es wird immer weiter daran gebaut. Er enthält viele moderne Elemente und so gibt es im Gebetsraum eine große Wand mit Comicfiguren u.a. Osama bin Laden und George W. Bush sitzend auf einer Rakete.

Chiang Rai Tempel Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Chiang Rai Tempel Thailand by Coconut & Vanilla

Ansonsten ist Chiang Rai eher hässlich und es gibt nichts zu sehen.

Es lohnt sich auch in die westlichen Berge von Chiang Mai zu fahren, wer mag kann den höchsten Berg Thailands den Doi Inthanon besteigen (oder mit dem Auto befahren), Wasserfälle besuchen und nach Pai – die Hipster Backpackerstadt – fahren. Beides hübsche Städtchen, gerade auch Pai, wenn auch recht voll mit Backpackern ;). Auf dem Weg lohnt sich auch ein Abstecher an die Grenze zu Myanmar, währendessen man durch die endlosen Teefelder fährt. Das habe ich auf meiner ersten Thailandreise gemacht und es war wirklich schön!

[:en]Weiter geht es nach Chiang Mai, die Hipster-Stadt Thailands!

Am ersten Abend fanden wir gleich einen dauerhaften Streetfood Markt, der uns doch sehr an Berlin erinnerte. Das Essen und die Getränke dort waren gut, aber alles sehr international! Braucht man natürlich nicht unbedingt im Urlaub, aber witzig war es schon und wir hatten einfach keine Lust mehr nach was zu Essen zu suchen. Der Streetfood Markt war in einem „Hinterhof“ der Chang Klan Road, wenn man in Fahrtrichtung läuft auf der rechten Seite nach dem Nachtmarkt Gebäude.

Nachdem wir uns bei der Hitze schon daran gewöhnt hatten uns im Pool abzukühlen wollten wir in Chiang Mai auch nicht mehr darauf verzichten. Wir sind nach Trip Advisor Bewertungen gegangen und haben im Baan Orapin reserviert gehabt (Via Mail ist eine Reservierung sinnvoll, denn es gibt nicht viele Zimmer. Unbedingt im hinteren Teil reservieren, der vordere Teil ist zu nah an der Straße, außer ihr seid tiefe Schläfer.). Das Baan Orapin ist im dunklen Thai-Stil mit viel Holz gehalten. Die Bäder sind schon etwas in die Jahre gekommen, genauso wie der uralte Röhrenfernseher. Das Bett war gut! Das Personal ist meistens sehr schwer auffindbar, was etwas nervig ist, wenn man ein Anliegen hat, z.B. dass der Wasserfall im Pool angeschaltet wird (der immer aus ist). Augen auf, wo er das anschaltet, dann könnt ihr es in Zukunft selbst einschalten ;). Dafür hat man sonst seinen Frieden. Das Frühstück war okay, aber nicht mehr. Es gab immer 7 oder 8 Gerichte a la carte, davon die Hälfte thailändisch oder englisches Frühstück mit Eiern. Ansonsten Schinken-Käse-Sandwich, gekauftes Müsli mit Milch oder Joghurt oder Obst mit Joghurt. Warum die Leute auf Trip Advisor deshalb so abgehen haben wir nicht nachvollziehen können. Ein Grund für Begeisterung wären eher Pancakes oder gescheites Brot gewesen ;).
Die Entfernung zur Altstadt ist gerade noch okay zum Laufen, dafür ist es eben ruhig gelegen mit Pool. Für ein paar Baht lässt sich die Strecke aber auch gut mit einem Taxi oder Songthaew überbrücken (dafür immer das Visitenkärtchen der Unterkunft mithaben!).

Im Großen und Ganzen konnten wir die Begeisterung auf Trip Advisor nicht nachvollziehen. Die Unterkunft ist aber in Ordnung und ruhig. Anscheinend ist es aber nicht einfach eine gute Unterkunft zu einem vernünftigen Preis in Chiang Mai zu finden die nicht zu weit außerhalb ist.

Nicht weit von unserer Unterkunft haben wir im Sala Lanna einen wunderbaren Cocktail getrunken! Hier sitzt man wirklich schön am Fluss in gehobener Atmosphäre. Klar die Cocktailpreise sind auch gehoben, aber sie waren geschmacklich wirklich top, ausgefallen und um Längen besser als was wir in benachbarten Bars und Restaurants probierten (nicht empfehlenswert: the Riverside und the Meeting Room Art Café, beides teuer, aber nicht gut). Als Hotel sieht es auch sehr schön aus, ist aber auch eher teuer.

Es empfiehlt sich am Sonntag in Chiang Mai zu sein und auf den großen Sunday Walking Street Market zu gehen! Er zieht sich vom Eingang in die Altstadt bis auf die andere Seite. Es gibt viel leckeres Streetfood und wirklich hübsche Sachen zu erstehen. Es gibt noch besondere handwerkliche Sachen. Wenn man die Augen offen hält sieht man sie noch zwischen dem ganzen üblichem Ramsch (besonders in den Seitengassen und Plätzen). Es empfiehlt sich bereits gegen 17 Uhr dort zu sein, denn man braucht sehr lange um sich alles anzuschauen (wobei wir nicht alles geschafft haben) und ab 19/20 Uhr wird es unglaublich voll. Das war der Zeitpunkt an dem wir dann aufgegeben haben, denn es macht einfach keinen Spaß sich durch die Straße zu quetschen.

Wenn ihr auch einen Faible für Orchideen habt dann empfehle ich Euch die Bai Orchid Farm zu besuchen. Im Mai waren kaum Menschen da und man konnte zwischen den vielen bunten Orchideen lustwandeln (im touristenreichen Winter kann das ganz anders aussehen). Wer sich allerdings nicht für Blumen begeistern kann, dem rate ich den Besuch ab, denn dann ist es langweilig! Ich fand es sehr schön! Restaurant und Shop sollte man links liegen lassen, das ist nur Nepp, versteht sich aber von selbst, oder?

Wenn ihr über ein Auto verfügt und etwas Zeit empfehle ich euch dringend die Fahrt nach Chang Rai zu machen und den weißen Tempel anzuschauen! Meiner Meinung nach mit dem Königspalast ein Must-see! Der Tempel wurde erst von einer Künstlergruppe erbaut und es wird immer weiter daran gebaut. Er enthält viele moderne Elemente und so gibt es im Gebetsraum eine große Wand mit Comicfiguren u.a. Osama bin Laden und George W. Bush sitzend auf einer Rakete.[:]

290 Gedanken zu „[:de]Nordthailand: Chiang Mai und Chiang Rai[:en]Northern Thailand: Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai[:]“

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